Philodendrons with deep red to dark green, almost black, foliage are popular indoor plants, often called “burgundy philodendrons.” These are not a single species but a collection of cultivars valued for their striking leaf coloration and manageable care. Their aesthetic appeal adds depth and visual interest to any plant collection.
Popular Burgundy Philodendron Varieties
Several popular Philodendron cultivars display characteristic burgundy to dark green foliage.
‘Imperial Red’ has large, glossy leaves that emerge reddish-burgundy and mature to deep green, often retaining red or purple undersides. This cultivar has a compact, upright growth habit, suitable for smaller indoor settings.
‘Rojo Congo’ features striking, glossy leaves that unfurl as vibrant red or burgundy. These leaves transition to deep green, often with red to purple hues on their undersides, complemented by reddish stems. ‘Rojo Congo’ is a self-heading philodendron, growing in an upright, bushy manner, and can reach up to 3 feet in height and spread indoors.
The ‘Black Cardinal’ philodendron is distinguished by its deep burgundy, almost black, broad, glossy leaves. New foliage emerges deep burgundy and hardens into a rich bronze-black tone with a glossy sheen. This variety also exhibits a compact, self-supporting growth habit, forming a dense rosette of overlapping leaves that do not require climbing support.
Caring for Your Burgundy Philodendron
Light
Burgundy philodendrons thrive in bright, indirect light. Place them near a window with filtered sunlight or in a well-lit room where direct sun does not hit the foliage. Too much direct sunlight can scorch their leaves, causing discoloration. Insufficient light can result in leggy growth with increased spacing between leaves and may cause the foliage to lose its vibrant dark coloration.
Watering
Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot, as philodendrons do not tolerate soggy soil. Signs of overwatering include yellowing, drooping leaves, and saturated soil. Conversely, underwatering can cause leaves to droop, turn yellow, or develop brown edges.
Soil
Burgundy philodendrons prefer a well-draining, slightly acidic potting mix rich in organic matter. An ideal soil blend includes potting soil, coco coir, perlite, and orchid bark for aeration and drainage. Incorporating horticultural charcoal can also help prevent bacterial issues. This chunky mix allows roots to access oxygen while retaining moisture without becoming waterlogged.
Humidity and Temperature
These tropical plants thrive in warm, humid environments, with temperatures ranging between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C). They prefer humidity levels of 60% or higher. To increase humidity, consider misting the leaves regularly, placing the plant on a pebble tray filled with water, or using a room humidifier. Protect them from cold drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations, as temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can cause stress.
Fertilization
During the active growing season (spring and summer), burgundy philodendrons benefit from regular feeding. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 or 3-3-3 NPK formula, diluted to half strength. Fertilize approximately once a month or every 4-6 weeks. Reduce or cease fertilization during the winter months when the plant’s growth slows.
Common Issues and Solutions
Yellowing leaves often indicate overwatering, especially if lower, older leaves are affected. If the soil is consistently soggy, allow it to dry out and adjust the watering schedule. Yellowing can also stem from underwatering, which presents with wilting and browning leaf tips.
Browning leaf tips or edges signal low humidity, particularly in dry indoor environments. Increasing humidity through misting or pebble trays can help. Drooping leaves, while sometimes indicating underwatering, can also be a symptom of inconsistent watering, over-fertilization, or temperature stress. Over-fertilization can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, damaging the root system and causing leaves to droop and brown.
Regularly inspect your plant for common houseplant pests like spider mites or mealybugs. If detected, prompt treatment with appropriate horticultural sprays or by wiping the leaves helps manage infestations. Healthy growing conditions increase a plant’s resilience to pest issues.
Propagation and Repotting
Propagating burgundy philodendrons is done through stem cuttings, ideally in spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. To propagate, select a healthy stem 4 to 6 inches long and cut just below a leaf node. Remove any leaves from the bottom portion of the cutting, ensuring at least one node remains exposed. Cuttings can then be placed in water, ensuring nodes are submerged, or directly into a moist, well-draining potting mix. Roots develop within a few weeks, after which water-rooted cuttings can be transplanted into soil.
Repotting is necessary when the plant becomes root-bound, indicated by roots emerging from drainage holes, circling the pot’s edges, or if growth slows significantly. Philodendrons outgrow their pots every 18 months to three years. The best time for repotting is during late spring or early summer, allowing the plant to recover quickly from transplant shock. Choose a new pot only one size larger than the current one to prevent excess moisture retention, ensuring it has adequate drainage holes. Gently remove the plant, place it in the new pot with fresh soil, and water thoroughly.